Optional Zipper Sample

Zippers can feel intimidating if you have not applied very many in the past.  As with all skills, the more you do them, the easier they get.  Your hoodie has an exposed zipper where the zipper teeth are visible.  I would like to teach you another type of zipper application to add to your set of skills.  This is the centered zipper.  A centered zipper has a lap or fold of fabric on the right and left sides of the zipper concealing it.

For this zipper sample, you will need the following supplies:

  • 2 – 10” X 3” swatches of your sample fabric
  • 2 – 9” X 1” pieces of your Shape Flex 101 Interfacing
  • 1 – 7” All Purpose Zipper
  • Zipper foot for your sewing machine
  • Optional items
    • ⅛” basting tape
    • Handsewing needle & thread
    • ½” transparent tape


  1. Apply interfacing to the seam allowance
  2. Finish the seam allowance
  3. Mark top and bottom zipper stop on seam allowance with notch/dot (1” down from the top)
  4. Sew Seam of garment to notch/dot & back stitch from bottom up
  5. Baste seam allowance where zipper will be placed from bottom up.  Press open 
  6. With wrong side of garment facing you, baste zipper to left seam allowance.  Repeat on the right side
  7. Turn garment to right side, spread as flat as possible
  8. On right side of garment, hand baste or pin through garment, zipper and seam allowance at base of the zipper and 1/4” on the each side of the seam
  9. Use pins, basting, tape or maker to guide you.  Topstitch from seam across bottom of zipper, starting 2 stitches beyond center seam.   Pivot, and sew up left side along marking until you can go no further without curving your seam around the stop.  Leave a finger-length thread for tying later.  
  10. Repeat for the right side, stitching 2 stitches over previous stitching at the bottom of the zipper
  11. Open up basting and open zipper below end of topstitching.  Finish topstitching on each side
  12. Bring threads to bottom and tie at bottom of zipper and topstitching.  Remove visible basting stitches